Korean fashion at Pitti Uomo: Concept Korea brings a breath of fresh air. From the East The most interesting designers of the moment
All Experts more or less agree: If this is the Chinese century in general, in 2018 oriental and emerging markets fashion will overtake the western one. By this year, indeed, more than half of OF CLOTHING AND FOOTWEAR sale will be generated out of the western market. And it's not just that. As a matter of fact, it is clear that more and more industry players (buyers, designers, bloggers, etc.) will see their power and influence GROW. At Pitti Uomo they have already noticed.
It's also true that SOME OF THE MOST INTERESTING BRANDS AND DESIGNERS OF THE MOMENT come from the east (in a wide sense). From Korea, in particular. Which has become a real concept.
"Concept Korea" is an international project, which started from New York in 2010 with the aim of promoting WORLD-WIDE the Korean culture/fashion. And, of course, helping brands and designers come out of national borders and conquer the fashion scene. The western one, of course, given that still (but for how long?) This is the place where success is being decreed.
"Concept Korea" has arrived at Pitti Uomo in 2017 and in 2018 edition KOCCA (the Agency of the Creative Content of Korea) and the Korean Ministry of Culture have presented two men's fashion brands.
On the catwalk, there were both men and women. And really sometimes it was hard to distinguish from each other. To confirm that genderless is now a consolidated trend.
On the catwalk
The first on the catwalk was Bmuet (TE), brand of the duo Byungmun Seo and Jina Um, whose motto can be summed up in "strange but Beautiful". Like two surrealists, the designers break and recompose; They assemble different materials and realize unusual and unexpected forms. Or they use the original shapes to create new meanings.
Patchwork of different fabrics, overlaps and exchanges are the masters: for examples the buttons of the coat placed also on the back, or the slits on the back. Or the trousers with one leg unstitched. Over shapes, asymmetrical cuts, ruffled sleeves. And models, all in all, short (thinking maybe to the oriental consumers...).
Interesting and original Brand, finalist at "Who is on next Dubai" in 2015. I liked it for its so unconventional style. To keep an eye on.
Behind Beyond Closet, second brand to show, there is Ko Taeyong, who launched his brand in 2008. Focus of the collection are definitely the graphics, especially the rumbles and checked patterns: You can hear the American preppy influence (the brand has its base in America).
It is a sui generis dandy, who nonchalantly wears the headpiece with fur tail a la Davy Crockett and the coat-robe. And do not disdain glittered jackets and hoods (men you are warned...). This light-hearted and unconventional man goes around the world wearing lilac and pink sweaters and orange jackets.
Here and there it seemed to me to seize some "guccification" (and on the other hand it seems difficult to think of being able to draw a modern dandy without risking to crash into Alessandro Michele).
I said mine. Which of this two do you like best?
... and remember: Age does not matter